Usage & Troubleshooting Guide
Everything you need to know about salt levels, cell maintenance, water chemistry, and solving common chlorinator issues.
How a Salt Chlorinator Works
A salt chlorinator uses electrolysis to convert dissolved salt (sodium chloride) in your pool water into chlorine. As pool water passes through the salt cell, a low voltage electrical current splits the salt molecules, producing chlorine gas that instantly dissolves to sanitise your pool.
The chlorine then oxidises contaminants and reverts back to salt, meaning the salt is continuously recycled. You only need to add salt to replace what is lost through splash out, backwashing, or dilution from rain.
Key components:
- Control box/power supply: Converts mains power to low voltage DC current and controls output levels
- Salt cell (electrolytic cell): Contains titanium plates coated with precious metals where electrolysis occurs
- Flow sensor: Detects water flow and prevents the cell from operating without water passing through
Checklist: Why your chlorinator may not be producing chlorine
| Check | What to look for | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Salt level | Below recommended range for your model | Test salt level. Add salt in small increments. Brush salt until dissolved. Allow 24 hours to dissolve before retesting. Low salt systems need 2,500+ ppm. Standard systems need 3,000+ ppm. |
| Stabiliser (cyanuric acid) | Below 30 ppm or absent | Add stabiliser according to package directions. Without it, UV destroys chlorine within hours. Note: too high stabiliser also reduces chlorine effectiveness. Maintain 30 to 50 ppm. |
| pH level | Above 7.8 | High pH dramatically reduces chlorine effectiveness. Lower pH to 7.2 to 7.6 using pH decreaser. |
| Output setting | Set too low for the season | Increase output percentage. Summer requires higher output than winter. Start at 100% and reduce gradually. |
| Pump run time | Not running long enough | Chlorinator only produces chlorine while the pump is running. Increase daily pump run time. 8 hours minimum in summer. |
| Cell condition | Scaled or worn plates | Inspect and clean the cell. If plates are worn thin or edges are eroded, the cell may need replacement. |
| Water temperature | Below 15ยฐC | Most chlorinators reduce or stop output in cold water to protect the cell. This is normal. See winter mode. Colder water reduces salt conductivity by 500 to 1,000 ppm in some cases. |
| Phosphate level | High phosphates | Phosphates consume chlorine. Test for phosphates and use a phosphate remover if levels are high. |
When to clean your cell:
- Monthly or as needed for optimal performance
- When you see visible white calcium deposits on the plates
- When chlorine output drops despite good salt levels and chemistry
- When your unit displays a check cell or low conductivity warning
๐งด Recommended: Water TechniX Salt Cell Cleaner
A premium, Australian-made pool chemical designed specifically to remove scale buildup from salt chlorinator cells. Its low-acid, organic acid formulation protects cell plates while effectively dissolving calcium deposits.
Key features:
- Non-Dangerous Goods. Not classified as hazardous according to SWA criteria. Safe to store and transport without restrictions
- Low acidic content. Organic acid blend (less than 10%) that's gentle on cell plates and won't damage the precious metal coating
- No dilution required. Use directly from the container. Simply mix 1 part cleaner to 4 parts water
- No toxic fumes. Non-toxic and non-corrosive for safer handling around the home
- Environmentally friendly. Biodegradable formula that breaks down naturally after use
- Safe on cell mesh. Won't corrode or damage the delicate mesh components
- Reusable. The cleaning solution can be reused for multiple cleanings
- 100% Australian made. Formulated for Australian pool conditions
How to clean with Water TechniX Salt Cell Cleaner (recommended):
- Turn off all electrical supply to the pump, filter, and chlorinator at the mains
- Remove the salt cell from the plumbing (usually unscrews via barrel unions)
- Rinse the cell in hot water to remove loose debris
- In a plastic container, mix 1 part Salt Cell Cleaner to 4 parts water, ensuring the cell plates are fully submerged. Keep electrical connections dry
- Leave the cell in the solution for 15 to 30 minutes, then assess. If calcium remains, continue soaking and check every 15 minutes
- Ensure the cell is not electrically connected during cleaning
- Once clean, use a soft bristled brush or plastic cell cleaning tool/scraper to remove any remaining deposits. Never use metal tools on the plates
- Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and reassemble
Alternative: Cleaning with acid (use only if Salt Cell Cleaner is unavailable)
- Mix a solution of 1 part hydrochloric acid to 10 parts water (always add acid to water, never the reverse)
- Submerge the cell plates in the solution. Do not submerge the entire cell. Keep electrical connections and housing completely dry
- Allow the solution to work for 5 to 10 minutes, or until bubbling stops
- Rinse thoroughly with fresh water
- Reinstall the cell and restart the system
| Warning/Indicator | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Low salt warning | Salt level below recommended range | Test salt level. Low salt systems need 2,500+ ppm. Standard systems need 3,000+ ppm. Add salt in increments, brush salt until dissolved, allow 24 hours before retesting. |
| High salt warning | Salt level above recommended range | Test salt level. Partially drain and refill the pool with fresh water to dilute. Excessive salt creates excessive heat and is detrimental to cell longevity. |
| Check cell / Cell warning | Cell needs cleaning or is reaching end of life | Inspect cell for calcium buildup. Clean if scaled (use Salt Cell Cleaner for best results). If clean and warning persists, cell may need replacement. |
| No flow warning | Insufficient water flow through the cell | Check pump is running. Clean skimmer and pump baskets. Backwash filter or clean/replace cartridge. Check for closed valves. Ensure flow sensor is connected. |
| Low temperature | Water temperature below operating threshold (typically 15ยฐC) | Normal in winter. Chlorinator will resume operation when water warms up. This is a protective feature, not a fault. Note: colder water reduces salt conductivity by 500 to 1,000 ppm in some cases. |
| Over temperature | Control box overheating | Ensure control box has adequate ventilation. Not in direct summer sun. Check fan (if fitted) is working. |
| No display / blank screen | Power supply issue, blown fuse, or possible display PCB issue | Check power point and RCD. Inspect any fuses in the power supply. If fuses are intact and power is confirmed, the display PCB may have failed. See No Power section. |
- Check the power point. Plug in another device to confirm the outlet is working. Check your switchboard for a tripped circuit breaker or RCD.
- Inspect the power cable. Look for damage, cuts, or loose connections. A damaged cable can prevent power reaching the unit.
- Check internal fuses. Many chlorinator power supplies have internal fuses. Turn off mains power, remove the cover, and inspect any fuses. Replace blown fuses with the same rating only.
- Check timer settings. If your chlorinator is connected to an external timer, confirm the timer is set correctly and is in the ON position during expected run times.
- Confirm pump is running. Some chlorinators are wired to only operate when the pump is running. Check your pump has power and is operational.
- Possible display PCB issue. If power is confirmed at the unit, fuses are intact, and the pump is running but the display remains blank, the display PCB may have failed. Contact support for further diagnosis.
| Issue | What to check | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Insufficient run time | Pump not running long enough for adequate chlorine production | Increase pump run time. 8 to 10 hours daily in summer is typical. Run during daylight when UV demand is highest. |
| Output too low | Chlorinator set below 100% during peak season | Set output to 100% and run pump longer. Reduce output only when chlorine levels are consistently maintained. |
| Stabiliser too low | Cyanuric acid below 30 ppm | Add stabiliser. Chlorine without stabiliser is destroyed by UV in hours. Note: too high stabiliser also reduces chlorine effectiveness. Maintain 30 to 50 ppm. |
| Filter issues | Filter dirty, clogged, or not running long enough | Backwash sand filters. Clean or replace cartridge filters. Ensure filter runs at least 8 hours daily. |
| High bather load | Heavy pool use consuming chlorine faster than production | Increase output and run time after heavy use. Consider a manual chlorine boost for parties. |
| Algae already established | Green or visible algae on walls or floor | Chlorinator cannot kill established algae alone. Perform a manual shock treatment with granular or liquid chlorine first. |
What happens in winter:
- Most chlorinators reduce output or shut down below approximately 15ยฐC water temperature
- This protects the cell from damage caused by operating in cold, highly conductive water
- Cold water naturally holds chlorine longer (less UV demand, slower algae growth)
- Your pool requires significantly less chlorine in winter
- Colder water reduces salt conductivity by 500 to 1,000 ppm in some cases, causing the chlorinator to not work as effectively. Running the cell in low conductivity conditions can potentially damage it over winter
Winter recommendations:
- Maintain salt in the higher end of your model's recommended range during winter to compensate for reduced conductivity in cold water
- Reduce pump run time to 4 to 6 hours daily
- Reduce chlorinator output to match lower chlorine demand
- Test water chemistry monthly (cold water changes slowly)
- If the chlorinator shuts down completely, you may need to manually dose chlorine occasionally
- Do not turn the chlorinator off completely for extended periods. Run it on low settings to maintain circulation through the cell
Typical cell lifespan:
- Average lifespan is 3 to 7 years depending on usage and maintenance
- Cells are rated for a certain number of operating hours (typically 10,000+ hours)
- Running the cell at 100% output continuously will shorten its life
- Proper water chemistry and regular cleaning with gentle products extend cell life
- Excessive salt creates excessive heat and is detrimental to cell longevity. Always maintain salt within your model's recommended range
- Running the cell with low conductivity (from low salt or cold water) can also cause damage over time
Signs your cell needs replacement:
- Cell plates appear thin, worn, or the edges are eroded away
- Plates have lost their dark coating and appear light grey or silver
- Chlorine production remains low despite clean plates, correct salt, and good chemistry
- Unit persistently displays check cell warning after cleaning
- The cell is more than 5 years old and performance has noticeably declined
๐ Always turn off mains power before removing, inspecting, or cleaning the salt cell or any electrical components.
๐งด Use Water TechniX Salt Cell Cleaner for routine monthly cell cleaning. It's non-DG, non-toxic, and non-corrosive with low acidic content (organic acid less than 10%). No dangerous fumes, no special storage, and it won't damage your cell plates like repeated acid cleaning can.
๐ง Add salt gradually and brush until dissolved. Know your system's requirements. Low salt chlorinators need 2,500 to 3,500 ppm. Standard systems need 3,000 to 6,000 ppm. Excessive salt creates excessive heat and is detrimental to cell longevity. Allowing undissolved salt to sit on pool surfaces may create salt staining.
โ๏ธ Never mix chemicals. Add chemicals to the pool separately. Do not add acid and chlorine at the same time.
๐ Super chlorinate sparingly. The super chlorinate/boost function runs the cell at maximum output. Frequent use shortens cell life. Use only when needed.
โ๏ธ Winter salt levels. Maintain salt in the higher end of your model's recommended range during winter. Cold water reduces salt conductivity by 500 to 1,000 ppm, causing reduced effectiveness and potential cell damage.
๐ Keep records. Note your salt readings, cell cleaning dates, and any issues. This helps identify patterns and predict cell replacement timing.
| Problem | Most likely cause | Check |
|---|---|---|
| No chlorine | Low salt or stabiliser | Test salt and stabiliser levels |
| Low salt warning | Salt below model's requirement | Test salt. Add to correct range. Brush salt until dissolved |
| Check cell warning | Calcium buildup on plates | Clean with Salt Cell Cleaner |
| No flow warning | Blocked filter, closed valve, or dirty cartridge | Clean baskets, backwash, clean/replace cartridge, check valves |
| Blank display | Power issue, blown fuse, or possible display PCB issue | Check power, inspect fuses. If fuses OK, possible PCB failure |
| Green water | Algae established | Manual shock treatment first |
| Cloudy water | Insufficient run time or dirty filter | Increase pump hours, clean/replace cartridge filter |
| Not working in winter | Cold water protection + reduced conductivity | Normal operation, maintain salt at higher end of range |
| Cell not lasting | Excessive salt, over-cleaning with acid, or poor chemistry | Use Salt Cell Cleaner, maintain correct salt range, balance pH |
| Salt staining on surfaces | Undissolved salt sitting on pool floor | Always brush salt until fully dissolved after adding |
๐ง Salt Chlorinator FAQs
It depends on your chlorinator make and model. Low salt systems (like Water TechniX) require 2,500 to 3,500 ppm. Standard chlorinators typically need 3,000 to 6,000 ppm. Check your unit's manual for exact requirements. Test your current salt level first, then use a salt calculator based on your pool volume. Add salt in increments, brush salt until dissolved, and allow 24 hours before retesting. Excessive salt creates excessive heat and shortens cell life.
Use pool grade salt (sodium chloride) specifically labelled for salt chlorinators. It dissolves faster and contains fewer impurities than general purpose salt. Avoid salt with added iodine or anti-caking agents. Always brush salt until fully dissolved. Allowing undissolved salt to sit on pool surfaces may create salt staining. Pool salt is available in 20kg bags from pool shops.
We recommend Water TechniX Salt Cell Cleaner. It's a non-DG, Australian-made formula using organic acids (less than 10%). Mix 1 part cleaner to 4 parts water, submerge the cell plates (not the entire cell), leave for 15 to 30 minutes then assess. Use a soft bristled brush or plastic cell cleaning tool to remove remaining deposits. Rinse thoroughly. If you must use acid, submerge the plates only, limit contact to 10 minutes maximum, and never submerge the entire cell.
Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) protects chlorine from being destroyed by UV sunlight. Without stabiliser, the sun can destroy up to 90% of your chlorine within a few hours. Maintain stabiliser at 30 to 50 ppm. Too high stabiliser also reduces chlorine effectiveness, so don't exceed 50 ppm. Indoor pools do not require stabiliser.
Yes, if your chlorinator is rated for magnesium mineral pools. Magnesium pools operate similarly to salt pools but use magnesium chloride instead of sodium chloride. Check your specific model's compatibility. Magnesium systems provide the same chlorine production with the added benefit of softer feeling water.
In summer, 8 to 10 hours daily is typical. In winter, 4 to 6 hours is usually sufficient. Run the system during daylight hours when UV demand is highest. The exact run time depends on your pool size, bather load, and output setting. Test chlorine regularly and adjust run time or output as needed.
Colder water reduces salt conductivity by 500 to 1,000 ppm in some cases. This means your chlorinator reads the salt level as lower than it actually is, which can cause it to not work as effectively and potentially damage the cell over winter. To compensate, always maintain salt in the higher end of your model's recommended range during colder months. This protects the cell and ensures reliable chlorine production.
๐ฑ 1300 511 901 | โ๏ธ support@mrpoolman.com.au
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